Borgarnes: Where the Sagas Begin

Perched on the edge of Borgarfjörður, 74 kilometres north of Reykjavík, Borgarnes serves as both a practical gateway to West Iceland and a profound literary pilgrimage site. This modest town of 2,000 residents sits at the epicentre of saga country, where the most celebrated tales of medieval Iceland unfold across a landscape that remains remarkably unchanged since the 13th century.

The town's position on Highway 1 makes it an inevitable stop for travellers heading to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula or the remote Westfjords, yet those who pause here discover something far more significant than a mere waystation. Borgarnes is where Iceland's greatest saga hero, Egil Skallagrímsson, lived and died, and where the complex web of family feuds, poetry, and politics that define the Icelandic sagas first took root.

The Heart of Saga Country

The Settlement Centre (Landnámssetur Íslands) on Bjarnarbraut forms the intellectual heart of Borgarnes, housing two permanent exhibitions that bring Iceland's founding stories to vivid life. The Settlement Exhibition traces the original colonisation of Iceland from 874 CE, while Egil's Saga Exhibition follows the tumultuous life of the warrior-poet whose family dominated this region for generations.

Entry costs 2,900 ISK for adults (approximately €20), with the audio guide included in English, German, French, and several other languages. The exhibitions run continuously throughout the day, each lasting roughly 30 minutes, and the centre operates year-round from 10:00 to 17:00 (extended summer hours until 18:00).

The Settlement Exhibition reveals how Skallagrímur, Egil's father, claimed this fertile land around 880 CE after fleeing Norway due to conflicts with King Harald Fair-hair. Interactive displays and dramatic tableaux illustrate how these early settlers transformed a volcanic wilderness into functioning farms and communities, establishing the foundations of Icelandic society.

Egil's Saga Comes Alive

The Egil's Saga Exhibition transforms one of Iceland's most complex literary works into an accessible narrative journey. Egil Skallagrímsson emerges not as a distant historical figure but as a flesh-and-blood Viking whose contradictions—brutal warrior and sensitive poet, loyal friend and dangerous enemy—capture the essential tensions of medieval Icelandic society.

Born around 910 CE at nearby Borg á Mýrum, Egil committed his first murder at age seven and composed his first poem shortly thereafter. The exhibition traces his adventures across the Viking world, from battles in England to court intrigues in Norway, always returning to his base in Borgarfjörður. Visitors hear Egil's own poetry recited in Old Norse, with translations revealing the sophisticated wordplay and emotional depth that made him Iceland's greatest skaldic poet.

Archaeological Connections

Just 5 kilometres south of Borgarnes lies Borg á Mýrum, where archaeological excavations have uncovered the actual foundations of what may be Egil's family farmstead. A reconstructed longhouse stands near the excavation site, built using traditional techniques and materials to demonstrate how saga-age Icelanders actually lived.

The farm's position, controlling access to the fertile Mýrar wetlands and the sheltered waters of Borgarfjörður, explains why Skallagrímur chose this location. From here, his descendants could monitor shipping traffic, control trade routes, and maintain the network of alliances that kept their family prominent for over two centuries.

Literary Landscape

The view from Borgarnes encompasses many locations mentioned specifically in Egil's Saga. Hafnarfjall (844 metres) dominates the southern horizon, while the distinctive profile of Baula (934 metres) rises to the east. These landmarks appear repeatedly in the saga as reference points for travels, battles, and significant events.

The Hvítá River, flowing past the town's eastern edge, served as a crucial transport route in saga times. Egil himself used this river system to move between his farm and the open sea, and several dramatic episodes in his saga unfold along its banks. Today, the river remains largely unchanged, its glacial waters carrying sediment from Langjökull to create the fertile farmlands that still support the region's agricultural economy.

Practical Considerations

Borgarnes functions as an ideal base for exploring saga sites throughout West Iceland. The town offers several accommodation options, from the comfortable Hotel Borgarnes Bed & Breakfast (rooms from 15,000 ISK) to the basic but adequate Borgarnes Hostel (beds from 4,500 ISK).

The N1 service station and accompanying shopping centre provide all necessary supplies, while the local swimming pool (Sundlaug Borgarness) offers the quintessential Icelandic experience of soaking in geothermal waters whilst contemplating the surrounding landscape.

Driving conditions remain excellent year-round on Highway 1, though winter visits require standard precautions for ice and reduced daylight. Summer offers the advantage of extended daylight hours and easier access to more remote saga sites, while winter visits provide atmospheric conditions that arguably better match the mood of these ancient tales.

The Settlement Centre represents exceptional value for literature enthusiasts and history buffs, offering scholarly depth rarely found in tourist attractions. The combination of academic rigour and engaging presentation makes complex medieval texts accessible without sacrificing intellectual content.

From Borgarnes, day trips easily reach Reykholt (40 kilometres), where Snorri Sturluson wrote many of the sagas, or the dramatic landscapes of Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Yet the town rewards longer stays, allowing visitors to absorb the subtle connections between landscape and literature that define this remarkable corner of Iceland.

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