Drangey: The Outlaw's Island

Rising 180 metres from the depths of Skagafjörður, the fortress-like island of Drangey stands as one of Iceland's most dramatic geological monuments and the stage for one of the saga age's most gripping tales. This sheer-sided basalt tower, measuring just 200 metres wide and 700 metres long, has captivated visitors for over a millennium with its perfect isolation and tragic history.

Drangey's near-vertical cliffs and flat-topped summit create an almost impregnable natural fortress—a quality that made it the ideal refuge for Iceland's most famous outlaw, Grettir Ásmundarson, hero of Grettir's Saga. Today, this bird-filled sanctuary offers adventurous travellers a chance to walk in the footsteps of medieval outlaws whilst experiencing some of Iceland's most spectacular seabird colonies.

The Outlaw's Last Stand

The story of Grettir the Strong transforms Drangey from a mere geological curiosity into a place of profound literary significance. According to Grettir's Saga, written in the 14th century but recounting events from around 1031, the powerful but ill-fated Grettir spent his final years on this isolated rock, surviving for three winters with only his brother Illugi and thrall Glaum for company.

The saga tells how Grettir, already outlawed for 19 years—longer than any man in Iceland's history—chose Drangey as his final refuge. The island's natural defences meant that only one treacherous path led to the summit, easily defended by a single warrior. Here, Grettir and his companions survived by raiding the abundant seabird colonies and occasionally rustling sheep from the mainland farms visible across the waters.

The saga's climax unfolds on Drangey's windswept plateau. Unable to take the island by force, Grettir's enemies resorted to witchcraft. The sorceress Þuríður cursed a piece of driftwood, which wounded Grettir's leg when he tried to chop it. Gangrene set in, and the weakened hero finally fell to his pursuers after a desperate final battle. The historical Grettir died on Drangey in 1031, ending one of the most celebrated outlaw careers in medieval literature.

A Geological Marvel

Drangey belongs to Iceland's family of volcanic plugs—remnants of ancient volcanic activity that have resisted millennia of erosion. The island formed approximately 700,000 years ago as basaltic lava cooled within a volcanic vent. Over geological time, the softer surrounding rock eroded away, leaving this spectacular tower standing sentinel in Skagafjörður.

The island's basalt columns, formed through the slow cooling of lava, create the geometric patterns visible on its cliff faces. These same formations provided the handholds and footholds that allowed medieval outlaws—and modern climbers—to scale the seemingly impossible walls. The flat summit, roughly 15 hectares in area, consists of fertile grassland that once supported small-scale farming and still provides nesting habitat for thousands of seabirds.

Seabird Sanctuary

Modern visitors to Drangey encounter one of Iceland's most important seabird colonies. From May through August, the island hosts approximately 200,000 breeding birds representing 11 species. Guillemots crowd onto every available ledge, their chocolate-brown and white plumage creating living murals against the dark basalt. Razorbills nest in crevices throughout the cliff faces, whilst kittiwakes build their precarious cup nests on the narrowest ledges.

The summit plateau belongs to the puffins. An estimated 50,000 pairs return each summer, transforming the grassy top into a bustling seabird city. These charismatic birds, with their multicoloured beaks and clown-like expressions, show little fear of human visitors, often allowing photographers to approach within metres.

Fulmars patrol the cliff faces on stiff wings, their grey and white forms ghosting past the dark rock. Arctic terns, those marathon migrants that travel from Arctic to Antarctic annually, nest in colonies on the flatter areas, aggressively defending their territories with diving attacks on intruders.

Visiting Drangey

Getting There

Drangey lies 1.5 kilometres offshore from the village of Reykir in Skagafjörður, approximately 30 kilometres north of Sauðárkrókur. The island is accessible only by boat, with tours operating from Reykir harbour during summer months.

**Drangey Tours** operates the primary service from late April through September, weather permitting. The 45-minute boat journey costs 15,900 ISK (€105/£95) for adults, including the guided tour of the island. The sturdy vessel *Drangey* accommodates up to 12 passengers and is specifically designed for the challenging landing conditions.

Tours typically depart at 13:00, allowing 2-3 hours on the island depending on weather and group fitness. Advanced booking is essential, particularly during July and August when puffin viewing is at its peak.

The Ascent

Landing on Drangey requires agility and nerve. The boat cannot dock—instead, passengers must leap from the vessel onto wet, seaweed-covered rocks as waves surge around the island's base. This dramatic arrival immediately conveys why Grettir chose this refuge.

The climb to the summit follows the same route used by the medieval outlaws. A combination of natural rock features and installed chains provides the means to ascend the 180-metre cliff face. The route requires basic climbing ability and strong nerves—several sections involve exposure to significant drops. Proper hiking boots with good grip are essential, and waterproof clothing is recommended as conditions can change rapidly.

The ascent takes 20-30 minutes for reasonably fit individuals, but the psychological challenge often proves more demanding than the physical effort. Those uncomfortable with heights should consider carefully before attempting the climb.

Best Time to Visit

The optimal period for visiting Drangey extends from mid-May through August, when seabird activity peaks and weather conditions are most favourable. Puffins arrive in late April and remain until early September, but are most active during June and July when feeding chicks.

Weather can change dramatically, and tours are frequently cancelled due to high winds or rough seas. The exposed nature of Skagafjörður means conditions on the mainland may bear little resemblance to those around the island.

Practical Considerations

What to Bring

- Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with excellent grip

- Waterproof jacket and trousers

- Warm layers (summit temperatures average 5-8°C lower than mainland)

- Hat and gloves, even in summer

- Camera with strap (dropping equipment during the climb is a real risk)

- Light backpack for personal items

Safety

The visit to Drangey involves genuine risks that should not be underestimated. The combination of exposed climbing, unpredictable weather, and aggressive seabirds (particularly arctic terns during nesting season) requires constant vigilance. Visitors must follow their guide's instructions precisely and be prepared to turn back if conditions deteriorate.

The tour operates under strict safety protocols, but participants assume responsibility for their own decisions. Those with mobility issues, heart conditions, or severe fear of heights should not attempt the climb.

A Journey Through Time

Standing on Drangey's summit, surrounded by wheeling seabirds and gazing across Skagafjörður's dramatic landscape, visitors experience a profound connection to Iceland's medieval past. The saga descriptions of Grettir scanning the mainland for potential threats or watching ships pass in the distance become vivid and immediate.

This remarkable island offers more than spectacular scenery and wildlife—it provides a tangible link to the world of the Icelandic sagas, where honour, survival, and the unforgiving landscape shaped destinies. For those willing to brave the challenging journey, Drangey delivers an unforgettable encounter with both Iceland's natural wonders and its literary heritage.

The outlaw's island continues to challenge modern visitors just as it tested medieval heroes, rewarding courage and determination with experiences found nowhere else in Iceland.

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