Stykkishólmur: The Town of Islands

Perched on the eastern shore of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula like a colourful Nordic postcard come to life, Stykkishólmur stands as one of Iceland's most photogenic harbour towns. With its rainbow-hued corrugated iron houses cascading down to a bustling marina, this settlement of 1,100 souls serves as the gateway to Breiðafjörður bay's countless islands and the unofficial capital of West Iceland's maritime adventures.

The town's name, meaning "pillar peninsula," derives from the distinctive basalt columns that punctuate the coastline—a geological calling card left by volcanic activity some 7 million years ago. These same formations create the sheltered harbour that has sustained the community since the first Norwegian merchants established a trading post here in 1550, making Stykkishólmur one of Iceland's oldest documented settlements.

A Living Museum of Nordic Architecture

The heart of Stykkishólmur lies in its impeccably preserved town centre, where 19th and early 20th-century wooden houses paint the landscape in shades of azure, crimson, and buttercup yellow. The Norwegian House, built in 1832, stands as the town's architectural crown jewel and now houses the Stykkishólmur Regional Museum. This timber structure, imported piece by piece from Norway, represents one of Iceland's finest examples of traditional Nordic construction and costs 1,500 ISK (€10/£8.50) to visit.

The town's visual harmony isn't accidental. Strict building regulations ensure new constructions complement the historical aesthetic, creating an almost film-set perfection that has attracted international film crews, including the makers of "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty" in 2013.

Sugandisey Island: The Town's Natural Crown

Connected to the mainland by a stone causeway, Sugandisey Island rises 78 metres above sea level and offers unparalleled panoramic views across Breiðafjörður bay. The 15-minute climb to the lighthouse rewards visitors with vistas encompassing the Snæfellsjökull glacier, the Westfjords' dramatic coastline, and on clear days, the seemingly infinite scatter of islands dotting the bay—some sources count over 2,700 islands and skerries, though the exact number fluctuates with tidal changes.

The island's name, meaning "suck-in island," references the powerful tidal currents that swirl around its base. The current lighthouse, erected in 1965, replaced earlier navigation aids that guided vessels through these treacherous waters since the 1800s.

Gateway to Breiðafjörður's Island Kingdom

Stykkishólmur's true calling lies as the departure point for exploring Breiðafjörður bay, a vast tidal ecosystem renowned for its extraordinary biodiversity and scattered archipelago. The ferry Baldur operates year-round services to Brjánslækur in the Westfjords, with additional summer routes to Flatey Island, the bay's only permanently inhabited outpost.

Flatey, measuring just 2 kilometres long and 1 kilometre wide, maintains a population that swells from five year-round residents to over 100 during summer months. The island's collection of 19th-century houses, many owned by Reykjavík residents as summer homes, creates an atmospheric time capsule where vehicles are forbidden and the pace of life moves to the rhythm of nesting arctic terns and eider ducks.

Sea Angling Paradise

The waters surrounding Stykkishólmur rank among Iceland's premier sea angling destinations. Charter boats operating from the marina target cod, haddock, pollock, and the prized Atlantic halibut in the nutrient-rich waters where the Hvítá river meets Breiðafjörður bay. Half-day fishing excursions typically cost 15,000-20,000 ISK (€100-135/£85-115) per person, with most operators providing equipment and cleaning services.

The bay's unique geography creates diverse fishing environments within a short cruise from harbour. The shallow waters between islands team with smaller species, while the deeper channels yield larger predatory fish. Many visitors combine angling with wildlife watching, as the same waters support significant populations of harbour seals, grey seals, and occasionally minke whales.

Practical Exploration

Reaching Stykkishólmur requires a 142-kilometre drive from Reykjavík via Route 1 and Route 54, typically taking 1 hour and 45 minutes. The Strætó 57 bus service connects the town to the capital twice daily during summer, with reduced winter service. The journey costs 3,680 ISK (€25/£21) one way.

Accommodation ranges from the historic Hotel Egilsen (from 25,000 ISK/€170/£145 per night) to the modern Fosshotel Stykkishólmur (from 18,000 ISK/€122/£104 per night). The town's compact size makes everything walkable, though car rental proves essential for exploring the broader Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

The optimal visiting period spans June through September, when ferry services operate full schedules and weather conditions favour island exploration. However, Stykkishólmur's sheltered position and well-maintained facilities make it accessible year-round, with winter visits offering the advantage of northern lights viewing opportunities over the bay's dark waters.

Dining options centre on seafood, naturally. Narfeyrarstofa restaurant specialises in locally caught fish and langoustine, while Sjávarpakkhúsið offers casual harbour-side dining with emphasis on traditional Icelandic preparations. Main courses typically range from 3,500-6,500 ISK (€24-44/£20-37).

For those seeking to understand Iceland beyond its geological wonders, Stykkishólmur provides an authentic window into the nation's maritime heritage and the enduring relationship between Icelanders and their surrounding seas. Here, the rhythms of tide and season still dictate daily life, much as they have for nearly five centuries.

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