The Troll Peninsula: Hiking Iceland's Northern Alps

The Tröllaskagi Peninsula rises from the North Atlantic like a primordial fortress, its jagged peaks earning the moniker "Iceland's Northern Alps." This 7,500-square-kilometre wilderness stretches between Eyjafjörður and Skagafjörður, offering some of Iceland's most spectacular alpine hiking amid peaks that soar over 1,400 metres above sea level. Here, ancient volcanic activity has sculpted a landscape so dramatic that early settlers believed it could only be the work of trolls.

Unlike Iceland's more accessible southern highlands, Tröllaskagi demands commitment from its visitors. The rewards are profound: pristine valleys carved by Ice Age glaciers, knife-edge ridges that challenge even experienced mountaineers, and a solitude increasingly rare in modern Iceland. This is hiking for those who seek the raw, uncompromising beauty of the Arctic mountains.

Geological Marvel of Ice and Fire

The peninsula's distinctive alpine character stems from its unique geological history. Unlike the broad lava shields that dominate much of Iceland, Tröllaskagi was shaped by intense glacial erosion during multiple ice ages. Ancient volcanic bedrock, primarily composed of 10-15 million-year-old basalt flows and rhyolite formations, has been carved into sharp arêtes, deep cirques, and U-shaped valleys.

The highest peak, Kerling, reaches 1,538 metres—making it Iceland's sixth-highest mountain. Nearby Kaldbakur towers at 1,173 metres directly above the town of Akureyri, its snow-capped summit visible from throughout the Eyjafjörður valley. These peaks retain snow well into summer, creating the alpine conditions that distinguish Tröllaskagi from Iceland's other highland regions.

Essential Hiking Routes

Kerling Summit via Héðinsfjörður

The ascent of Kerling represents the peninsula's ultimate challenge, requiring 12-14 hours and covering 18 kilometres with 1,400 metres of elevation gain. The route begins from the abandoned Héðinsfjörður valley, accessible only via the 5.4-kilometre Ólafsfjörður tunnel on Route 76.

From the valley floor at 100 metres elevation, the path follows the Kerlingará river before ascending the steep western couloir. Above 1,000 metres, the terrain becomes technical, requiring scrambling skills and potentially mountaineering equipment depending on snow conditions. The summit pyramid demands careful route-finding across loose scree and exposed rock faces.

Weather windows are critical—attempt Kerling only in stable conditions between June and September. Mountain rescue services recommend carrying GPS navigation, as weather can deteriorate rapidly at elevation.

The Tröllaskagi Traverse

This multi-day expedition follows the peninsula's spine for 45 kilometres between Dalvík and Siglufjörður, traversing seven peaks above 1,000 metres. The full traverse typically requires 4-5 days, with wild camping essential as no huts exist along the route.

Key stages include the technical scramble over Múlakolla (1,069m), the exposed ridge crossing of Súlur (1,213m), and the final descent into Siglufjörður through the historic Hestskarð pass. Total elevation gain exceeds 3,500 metres, making this one of Iceland's most demanding long-distance hikes.

Water is reliable from snowmelt streams through August, but purification is recommended. Camping is permitted throughout the highlands under Iceland's right to roam laws, though leave-no-trace principles are essential in this pristine environment.

Kaldbakur from Akureyri

The most accessible of Tröllaskagi's major peaks, Kaldbakur offers a challenging day hike just 30 minutes from Akureyri. The 16-kilometre round trip gains 1,100 metres elevation, following jeep tracks through the Naustaborgir quarry before ascending the mountain's southern ridge.

Begin early from the Kjarnaskógur forest parking area (coordinates: 65.6892°N, 18.0892°W) to allow 8-10 hours for the round trip. The initial 5 kilometres follow well-marked paths, but above 700 metres, navigation requires careful attention to cairns and GPS waypoints.

The summit rewards with panoramic views across northern Iceland—from Vatnajökull glacier to the Westfjords on clear days. Descent via the same route is safest, as the mountain's northern faces drop precipitously toward Eyjafjörður.

Practical Considerations

When to Visit

The hiking season runs from mid-June through September, with July and August offering the most reliable weather. Snow can persist on higher routes until late June, whilst September brings autumn colours but increased storm risk. Winter mountaineering is possible but requires advanced skills and equipment for extreme Arctic conditions.

Temperature ranges from 8-15°C at valley level in summer, dropping approximately 6°C per 1,000 metres of elevation. Precipitation averages 80mm monthly during summer, often falling as snow above 800 metres even in July.

Access and Accommodation

Akureyri serves as the primary base, offering full services including mountain equipment rental. Kea Hotel Akureyri (from 18,500 ISK/€130 per night) provides convenient town centre accommodation, whilst Hamrar Campsite (1,800 ISK/€12 per tent) offers budget options.

Northern access points include Dalvík, Ólafsfjörður, and Siglufjörður, all connected by Route 76. The Ólafsfjörður tunnel (toll: 1,000 ISK/€7) provides year-round access to the northern coastline, though some mountain access roads require 4WD vehicles.

Car rental from Akureyri starts at approximately 8,000 ISK/€56 daily for 4WD vehicles essential for mountain access roads. Book early during summer months as availability becomes limited.

Safety and Equipment

Tröllaskagi's alpine environment demands comprehensive mountain equipment: GPS navigation, emergency shelter, warm clothing, and potentially crampons and ice axe for early season conditions. Weather can change within minutes at elevation—hypothermia remains a serious risk even in summer.

Register hiking plans with accommodation providers and carry emergency communication. Mobile coverage is sporadic above 600 metres, making satellite communication devices advisable for solo hikers or challenging routes.

The Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) provides excellent mountain rescue services, but self-reliance remains paramount in this remote environment. Emergency contact: 112.

A Landscape Worth the Challenge

The Tröllaskagi Peninsula stands apart in Iceland's hiking landscape—a genuine alpine environment where technical challenge meets pristine wilderness. Its peaks demand respect, preparation, and skill, but reward those efforts with experiences found nowhere else in Iceland. In a country increasingly discovered by mass tourism, these northern Alps remain a sanctuary for serious mountain enthusiasts seeking Iceland at its most magnificent and uncompromising.

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